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贾新光产业述评:俄罗斯汽车业历史现状

——摘自搜狐网(http://auto.sohu.com)

  曾经有过辉煌的年代

  1895年,美国的杜伊亚兄弟造出了美国第一辆汽车,一年之后,在俄罗斯的彼得堡也响起了汽车发动机的轰鸣声,这是发明家亚科夫列夫和弗列泽创造的成果。

  第一次世界大战前,俄国生产了400辆汽车,但是同时也进口了数万辆汽车。为了战争的需要,沙皇政府规划在全国建设6个汽车厂,设计年产量为7500辆。未等这些汽车厂建成,阿芙乐尔号的炮声轰响了,宣告了十月革命的胜利。

  1924年,莫斯科的阿莫夫工厂(后改称斯大林汽车厂,再后改名李哈乔夫厂,简称吉尔厂)生产出了苏联的第一批10辆阿莫-Φ15型轻卡,揭开了苏联汽车工业发展史的第一页。这家工厂是旧俄国政府建设的6家汽车厂之一,虽然到1917年仅完成了三分之二的工程量,但这已是6家中进展最快的一家。随后,1925年在列别捷夫厂的基础上建成的雅罗斯拉夫厂(该厂1959年后改产柴油发动机)开始生产卡车,1927年新建的莫斯科斯巴达克厂开始生产自行设计的微型轿车。

  到20年代末,苏联汽车年产量达到2000辆,但是远远满足不了市场需要,道路上行驶的汽车90%依靠进口,

  30年代,苏联制定了社会主义工业化纲领,着重发展重工业生产,汽车工业被列为重点项目。1932年在美国福特汽车公司的援助下,苏联建成了高尔基汽车厂(简称嘎斯厂),主要产品是嘎斯-A型轿车,规划年产10万辆。这期间还改造了阿莫夫厂,形成7万辆的生产能力,再加上红色普提洛夫人厂等,形成了苏联汽车工业的基础力量,汽车产量迅速增加,1937年超过20万辆,居当时世界汽车生产的第四位,卡车产量为欧洲第一和...

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等速万向联轴节及防尘套组件
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If the CV joints need service, a CV joint service kit should be installed. Joint service kits typically include a CV joint, boot, boot clamps and seals, special grease for lubrication (various joints require different amounts of grease; the correct quantity is packed in each kit), retaining rings, and all other attachment parts.

Part manufacturers also produce a line of complete boot sets for each application, including new clamps and the appropriate type and amount of grease for the joint. CV joints require a special high-temperature, high-pressure grease. Substituting any other type of grease may lead to premature failure of the joint. Be sure to use all the grease supplied in the joint or boot kit. The same rule applies to the clamps. Use only those clamps supplied with the replacement boot. Follow the directions for positioning and securing them.

Old boots should never be reused when replacing a CV joint. In most cases, failure of the old joint is caused by some deterioration of the old boot. Reusing an old boot on a new joint usually leads to the quick destruction of the joint.

The photo sequence below shows the procedure for removing a typical drive axle and replacing a CV joint boot. Always refer to the your vehicle's service manual for the exact service procedure. The diagnosis and service chart shown below gives an idea of the types of front-wheel drivetrain problems that can occur.





The following are some guidelines to follow when servicing CV joints:

  • Never jerk or pull on the axle shaft when removing it from a vehicle with tripod inner joints. Doing so may pull the joint apart, allowing the needle bearings to fall out of the roller. Pull on the inner housing, and support the outer end of the shaft until the shaft is completely out.
  • Always torque the hub nuts to the vehicle manufacturer's specifications. This is absolutely necessary to properly preload the wheel bearings. Do not guess. The specifications can vary from 75 to 235 ft-lb (101 to 318 N∙m). Most axle hub nuts are staked in place after they have been tightened.



Most axle hub nuts are staked after they are tightened to lock them in place. Courtesy of Moog Automotive, Inc.
  • Never use an impact wrench to loosen or tighten axle hub nuts. Doing so may damage the wheel bearings as well as the CV joints.
  • On vehicles with anti-lock brakes, use care to protect the wheel speed sensor and tone ring on the outer CV joint housings. If misaligned or damaged during joint replacement, it can cause wheel speed sensor problems.
  • Always recheck the alignment after replacing CV joints. Marking the camber bolts is not enough, because camber can be off as much as three-quarters of a degree due to differences between the size of the camber bolts and their holes.

Removing and Replacing a CV Joint Boot



Removing the axle from the car begins with the removal of the wheel cover and wheel hub cover. The hub nut should be loosened before raising the car and removing the wheel.





After the car is raised and the wheel is removed, the hub nut can be unscrewed from the axle shaft.





The brake line holding clamp must be loosened from the suspension.





The ball joint must be separated from the steering knuckle assembly. To do this, first remove the ball joint retaining bolt. Then pry down on the control arm until the ball joint is free.





The inboard joint can be pulled free from the transaxle.





A special tool is normally needed to separate the axle shaft from the hub. This allows the axle to be removed from the car.





The axle shaft should be mounted in a soft-jawed vise for work on the joint. Pieces of wood on either side of the axle work well to secure the axle without damaging it.





Begin boot removal by cutting and discarding the boot clamps.





Scribe a mark around the axle to indicate the boot's position on the shaft. Then, move the boot off the joint.





Remove the circlip and separate the joint from the shaft.





Slide the old boot off the shaft.





Wipe the axle shaft clean and install the new boot onto the shaft.





Place the boot into its proper location on the shaft and install a new clamp.





Using a new circlip, reinstall the joint on the shaft. Pack joint grease into the joint and boot. The entire packet of grease that comes with a new boot needs to be forced into the boot and joint.





Pull the boot over the joint and into its proper position. Use a dull screwdriver to lift an edge of the boot up. This will equalize the pressure inside the boot with the outside air.




Art courtesy of Delmar - Thomson Learning.

Install the new large boot clamp and reinstall the axle into the car. Torque the hub nut after the wheels have been reinstalled and the car is sitting on the ground.


 


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等速万向联轴节及防尘套组件
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